Thursday, May 2, 2019

BERCUTI DI ACEH, KOTA SERAMBI MEKAH

Nama Aceh mula disebut-sebut sejak berlakunya peristiwa tsunami yang mengejutkan seluruh dunia. Peristiwa tsunami yang terjadi pada tahun 2004 itu telah meragut ratusan ribu nyawa penduduk di sekitar Aceh.

Aceh digelar sebagai kota Serambi Mekah kerana wilayah ini mempraktikkan hukum hudud dan sesuai dengan cogan katanya, "Light of Aceh", kota ini boleh dikatakan lebih islamik berbanding provinsi lain di Indonesia.

Bandara Sultan Iskandar Muda, Banda Aceh.

Rasanya, ramai yang dah tau tentang lokasi provinsi Aceh ni. Secara geografinya, Aceh terletak di hujung Utara kepulauan Sumatera di Republik Indonesia. Banda Aceh merupakan ibu kota dan pusat pemerintahan provinsi Aceh, manakala Pulau Weh adalah pulau yang terletak berhampiran dengan Banda Aceh.

Sewaktu di Aceh, kami sempat ke Pulau Weh atau dipanggil Sabang oleh warga tempatan. Apa yang aku faham, Sabang ni sebenarnya adalah pekan/bandar terbesar di Pulau weh. Tapi kalau kau pergi sana, rata-rata orang kat sana memang panggil Sabang. Diorang tak panggil Pulau Weh pun.

Kapal Tanjung Burang yang kami naiki untuk ke Pulau Weh.

Kami tinggal selama dua malam di Sabang, dan satu malam lagi di Banda Aceh. Berdasarkan pengalaman aku sepanjang 4 hari di bumi Aceh, ini antara apa yang aku perhatikan dan aku alami kat sana...

Di Pulau Weh atau Sabang;

1. Dari Pelabuhan Ulee Lheue (sebut: ulele), boleh pilih untuk naik kapal cepat (sekitar 45 minit) atau kapal lambat (sekitar 2 jam) untuk sampai ke Pelabuhan Balohan di Pulau Weh. Aku lebih prefer kapal lambat sebab kapalnya terbuka dan lebih santai berbanding kapal cepat yang tertutup. Tapi, kalau korang kesuntukan masa, boleh la naik kapal cepat, bayar lebih sikit.

2. Kedai-kedai kat sini biasanya akan tutup sekejap waktu solat maghrib, dan ramai orang ke masjid untuk solat berjemaah. Jadi, kalau nak cari makan, cari lah sebelum atau selepas maghrib.

Pemandangan Pekan Sabang daripada Menara Merah Putih.

3. Orang luar atau pelancong yang datang ke sini memang akan sewa motor atau kereta, sebab pulau ni agak besar. Nak jalan kaki ke semua tempat jauh tau.

4. Naik motor tak pakai helmet takde masalah, takde polis tahan. Jadi, fungsi helmet tu untuk keselamatan atau untuk elak ditahan polis? Heeeeee

5. Tinggalkan je kunci motor kat motor, tak hilang katanya. Orang tak curi, sebab orang kat sini takut Tuhan. Huhu. Tapi aku tetap tak berani nak tinggal sebab motor sewa. Kalau hilang, menyusahkan aku pulak nanti. Aku siap kunci handle lagi.

6. Kebanyakkan kedai tutup jam 10 malam. Jadi, tiada late night activities ye. Ada sesetengah tempat (contohnya, Casanemo Resort) yang boleh nongkrong sampai jam 11. Tapi aku tak jumpa pulak tempat yang buka sampai 2-3 pagi.

7. Recommended untuk menginap di Freddies, Pantai Sumur Tiga yang tak jauh dari pekan Sabang. Waktu malam boleh la ke Sabang Fair untuk kuliner, meriah jugak, banyak kedai makan. Kalau menginap di Iboih, aku tak pasti macam mana suasana malamnya.

Pemandangan laut daripada cafe di Freddies.
Sunrise view daripada bungalow penginapan kami di Freddies.

8. Perjalanan dari Sabang ke Iboih memakan masa antara 30-40 minit. Jalan kat Pulau Weh ni kebanyakkannya sangat kecik, berbukit-bukau, berselekoh dan sunyi sepi. Kalau memandu sendiri, pastikan kawan yang memandu tu memang seorang yang cekap, macam aku.






Gambar-gambar di Gua Sarang, Iboih.

9. Hari kedua, kami ke Gua Sarang yang terletak di Iboih. Di sana, kami terjumpa dengan lima orang anak muda tempatan. Salah seorang dari diorang tegur kami. Memandangkan destinasi seterusnya sama, kami pun bergerak sekali dengan diorang. Lepastu kami bertujuh berkongsi boat untuk snorkeling di Pulau Rubiah. Pulau Rubiah ni memang spot untuk snorkeling di Sabang ye.

Snorkeling spot di Pulau Rubiah.
Menunggu bot di Pulau Rubiah.
Selesai snorkeling bersama teman-teman baru.

10. Antara tempat lain yang selalu dikunjungi di sana termasuklah Titik Nol Kilometer dan Tugu I Love Sabang. Kami ada juga ke Benteng Jepang Ujong Kareung dan Pantai Anoi Itam tapi gambar hilang sebab kawan aku terformat semua gambar dari camera. Sekian, kisah sedih ringkas pasal camera. Sobs.

Pantai Anoi Itam.


Bergambar di Tugu I Love Sabang sebelum pulang ke Banda Aceh.


Di Banda Aceh;

1. Masjid Raya Baiturrahman merupakan tumpuan utama semua pelancong yang datang ke sini, termasuk aku. Masjid yang dibina berinspirasikan Taj Mahal ini adalah salah satu masjid yang tetap berdiri teguh sewaktu air tsunami sudah menenggelamkan kawasan sekelilingnya. Antara masjid lain yang menarik untuk dilawati adalah Masjid Rahmatullah di Lampuuk dan Masjid Baiturrahim di Ulee Lheue.



Gambar-gambar di luar dan dalam Masjid Raya Baiturrahman.

2. Untuk melawat masuk ke Masjid Raya Baiturrahman, kaum wanita tidak boleh berseluar, kena pakai kain. Nasib baik aku pakai palazzo loose haritu, so aku masuk je tak payah berkain. Tapi, kalau tengok dalam ramai-ramai tu, ada jugak yang berseluar ketat tapi boleh terlepas masuk ke dalam perkarangan masjid. Kalau kau datang pakai seluar, sarung jelah apa-apa kain (in our case, pakai kain batik) kat luar seluar kau tu. Setel.

3. Sewaktu masuk ke dalam terowong tsunami di Muzium Tsunami Aceh, terasa sebak, insaf dan rasa kerdil sangat diri ni. Bunyi ombak dan titisan air tu akan buat kau rasa macam kematian tu hampir sangat. Dengan kuasa Tuhan, apa-apa pun boleh berlaku, bila-bila sekalipun. Kun fayakun. Tapi, semoga lama la rasa keinsafan ni ye. Iman senipis kulit bawang je.

Kapal PLTD Apung yang dibawa ombak tsunami sejauh 5km.

4. Antara tempat lain yang boleh dilawati termasuk Kapal PLTD Apung, Pantai Lampuuk dan kapal atas rumah. Must try food di Banda Aceh adalah Mee Aceh, kopi Aceh (kopi Gayo), ayam tangkap dan kopi sanger.

Mee Aceh yang kami makan di sana.
Ayam Tangkap di warung Yah Bit.



5. Di Banda Aceh ni, lelaki dan perempuan yang bukan muhrim tak boleh keluar berpacaran berdua ye. Kiranya, tak boleh dating la. Tapi, mustahil kalau takde yang buat kan, mesti ada.

6. Warkop (warung kopi) biasanya dipenuhi dengan kaum lelaki je. Kaum wanita tak elok duduk mengopi di warkop, tak manis dipandang. Patut lah waktu kami duduk mengopi di warkop, semua orang pandang je. Sangat awkward, sebab kami berdua je perempuan kat situ. Lol.

Coffee Nirapresso yang terkenal di Moorden Coffee Shop.


7. Tapi, sewaktu kami mengopi di Moorden Coffee Shop, ada ramai jugak perempuan yang mengopi di situ. Mungkin kerana cafe tu lebih hipster, jadi pengunjungnya pun lebih ramai anak-anak muda yang hip dan trendy. Ambience kedai pun lebih chill dan santai.


Bas percuma yang kami naiki di Banda Aceh. Ada banyak rute.


8. Hukuman hudud hanya dikenakan ke atas penduduk Aceh sahaja. Jadi, untuk pengunjung luar tak perlu risau la ya. Tapi, ini tak bermakna korang boleh buat sesuka hati korang. Hormat je dengan budaya, adat dan cara hidup masyarakat di sana. Aman hidup. Jangan takut sangat nak datang ke Aceh. Lagipun, kalau tak salah, buat apa nak takut, kan?


Host kami di Banda Aceh, ayah dan bunda Pocut.


9. Sejujurnya kami tak explore kesemua tempat menarik di Banda Aceh sebab kami dah letih dan cuma nak rehat-rehat di sana sebelum meneruskan perjalanan yang pastinya akan lebih adventurous di Sumatera Utara.


Sekian coretan perjalanan, pengalaman dan cerita aku dan Azie sepanjang kami berada di bumi Aceh khususnya di kedua-dua destinasi yang kami lawati. Untuk tips & tricks, budget dan itinerary, boleh comment di bawah, nanti aku reply.

Selepas 4 hari di Aceh, kami mengembara bermotor di Sumatera Utara selama 6 hari. Tunggu next post tau. Stay tuned!

Sunday, November 11, 2018

A WEEKEND IN BRUNEI DARUSSALAM, THE ABODE OF PEACE

"Best tak Brunei?"

The most common question that i got from my relatives and friends after i went back from spending a weekend in Bandar Seri Begawan, Brunei Darussalam. Here's my experiences and thoughts about the people and the country. You will find my answer on the last paragraph.

Exploring the Kingdom of Unexpected Treasures on my own.

So, how was Brunei? From my experience...

Bandar Seri Begawan, shortly called as BSB, is a quiet city. It is very very quiet to the extent that one might not believe that it is a capital city of a country. The city is not very well developed with high-rise bulding unlike the neighbouring countries. There is not a single skyscrapper on sight! All of the major attractions in the city are nearby to each other, so walking is possible. The vibe is chill and the pace is slow. There was no city hustle and bustle during my visit. The only thing that is fast is the boat to the water village lol

The road is almost empty during midday.

Fun Fact: The Sultan is an absolute monarch and holds the role of Prime Minister, Finance Minister and Head of Military.

People are very warm and friendly. Arriving alone in an unfamiliar place, or country, i feel safe and welcomed. Bruneian are always being helpful to me. One is when i walked out of Masjid Omar Ali Saifuddin, a car suddenly stopped and the driver asked me where i'm going. He willingly went out from his car and showed me the way to the museum. Second time is when i was at the bus terminal. A middle-aged guy approached me and asked where i'm heading. The he send me to the bus and tell the bus driver to drive me to my destination safely. Not to forget my friend from Couchsurfing, Taufiq and Rose. Taufiq always giving me information about Brunei and never get bored to answer my silly questions eventho we haven't met in person. Rose kindheartedly picked me up at my hostel and bring me to lunch then drove me to the city centre. All these people are very kind! To describe the kindness, i can write an essay y'know...

Fun Fact: Sharia Law (Hudud) was introduced in 2014 and will be implemented by stages.

"Bandarku Ceria" is a great initiative by the government. It is a weekly program, happening on Sunday at the city of Bandar Seri Begawan. Most of the road will be closed on that day from morning to afternoon. There will be a lot of activities going on in the town area such as cycling, walking and jogging. There are also street vendors selling preloved and antique items, clothes and also foods. It is another way to look at the city, from a quiet city the day before to a very lively city on the Sunday. It is more like a family day. Most people are hanging out together with their whole family and having a good time.

Things that i find "cute" sold by the street vendor.

Fun Fact: School days in Brunei were from Monday to Thursday + Sunday, and the free days is on Friday and Sunday.

I stayed at a hostel that is located a bit out of city centre but that doesn't mean that it is not a good hostel. In fact, AE Backpackers Hostel is a very very good hostel. It is new and super clean! The staffs are all very friendly and helpful. The good thing is that the hostel is located in the middle of the city centre and Gadong district. The way to access this hostel from the city centre is by taking bus no. 20 (cost 1BND) or take a water taxi to Kiulap jetty (cost 2BND) from waterfront area or walk (for free) around 30 minutes. When i was walking back to my hostel, it was only me walking along the roadside but i feel safe eventho it's already dark. No worries about crossing the road as the drivers would patiently stop for pedestrians.

Fun Fact: Brunei has the highest vehicle ownership, one car for every 2.09 people.

The Brunei Dollar, BND is the official currency of Brunei Darussalam but it is called as "ringgit". Hence, as a Malaysian, it is quite confusing at first since Ringgit Malaysia, MYR is our currency and also called as "ringgit". Just bear in mind that 1 MYR is not equal to 1 BND. Many years ago, Brunei and Singapore has signed a currency interchangeability agreement. This deal allows Singapore Dollar, SGD and BND to be used in each other's country, without any extra charges. I brought some SGD notes with me while i was in Brunei and had no problems using it.

Fun Fact: Brunei is one of the wealthiest countries in the world and its riches mostly derives from oil and gas.


How is the food scene?

The food is not really impressive for me as a Malaysian. There are many similarities in our food. For the same dish, it's always cheaper in Malaysia. Hence, i only tried foods that cannot be found in Peninsular Malaysia.

Ambuyat set for two person at Restoran Aminah Arif.
Ambuyat, the national dish is a must try. Some people say it looks disgusting but it looks normal to me, and the taste is not that bad. The best and most famous ambuyat in Brunei is only at Restoran Aminah Arif. Ambuyat can also be found in the Borneo part of Malaysia, but is called as Linut.

With only 1BND, you can fill your stomach with Nasi Katok. It is made up of fragrance rice, deep fried chicken and few choices of sambal sauce. Jollibee is the most famous fast food chain. the restaurant is more crowded compared to KFC and McD. It is originally from Philippines but it's only halal in Brunei. Jollibee is famous for its crispy fried chicken, so give it a try!

Crispy fried chicken and spaghetti at Jollibee.

Fun Fact: Brunei is often called as a "dry" country among the tourists not because of the hot weather, but because alcohol is forbidden, both buying and drinking in public. 


How people in Brunei speak?

Their national language is Malay. So they speak the same malay as Malaysian with slight accent that sounds a bit like Sabahan or Sarawakian. Also, most people can speak English so no worries about communication.


Is there any public transportation in Brunei?

Yes, the are public buses, taxis, Dart and water taxis.

The public buses (which looks more like a van) operate from 6am to 6pm. However, the timing is unpredictable and unreliable. Sometimes, you have to wait longer than usual. Make sure you;re not in a rush if you depend 100% on it.

Public bus at the bus terminal.

Taking a taxi in Brunei is expensive. Eventho the fuel price is cheap, but the taxi's fare is pricy due to low demand. People in Brunei mostly can afford at least a car so they don't really depends on the public transportation.

In Brunei, they use Dart as the replacement of Uber and GrabCar since both are not available there. The fare is quite expensive but cheaper than taxis. Totally worth it if you're travelling in a group.

Motorboat water taxis that are used by everyone.

Motorboat water taxis were the most common in water village. It cost 1BND to cross from the city centre to the water village, from where you can walk around the walkways and explore by yourself. You can also pay 10BND for 1-hour tour around the water village and go down to the river in search of proboscis monkeys. Water taxi is also available from the waterfront area to Kiulap jetty.


What is the major attractions in Brunei?

Now, if people say there's nothing to do and see in Brunei, i'll show this list. And this is not all, there are plenty more that i don't even explore.

 1. Masjid Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddin (SOAS) - famous for its gold plated dome
2. Taman Mahkota Jubli Emas (Eco corridor) - just in front of SOAS
3. Taman Tasek Lama - a park with waterfall and hiking trail
4. Royal Regalia Museum
5. Kampung Ayer (Water Village) - Venice of East, world's largest water village
6. Tamu Kianggeh - local market to shop for groceries
7. Mercu Dirgahayu
8. Jame' Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque - another big and beautiful mosque
9. Gadong Night Market - place to fill ur stomach with delicious Bruneian foods
10. Empire Hotel & Country Club - recommended sunset spot in a 7-star hotel

Fun Fact: Nowadays, you can spot some modern concrete houses at Kampong Ayer. It was built by the government for the villagers who had their wooden houses destroyed during few major fires.


SOAS Mosque looks beautiful with gold dome and marble minarets.
Walkways at Kampong Ayer.

Rows of moderns houses built using concrete at Kampong Ayer.
Mercu Dirgahayu that is located at the waterfront.

Jame' Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque.
You can actually google about Brunei and find so many interesting places to visit all over Brunei. Since i was only visiting the capital city and it was only for two days, i choose to make my visit differently. I don't want to be in a rush trying to complete my list of places-to-go in Brunei. Instead, i'm trying my best to be as relaxed as possible. I don't mind canceling my hiking trip at Taman Tasek Lama just to chat with the staff at my hostel that i'm staying (because i found out that one of them live in the water village and it's interesting to hear her story).

Fun Fact: Education and Healthcare are free in Brunei.

Brunei is not boring, Brunei is cool, for me. Brunei is not the place for people who want to have an exciting vacations with tonnes to see, do and buy. If you want a break from your usual hectic city life, this small town is your cup of tea.

SOAS Mosque as seen at dusk. So magical!
No matter how many bad things people can say about Brunei, most of the citizens are happy with their life and country. Who are we to judge how they should live their life?

Admiring the sky during dusk is one of my favourite.

So, my answer is, "Brunei best la!" :)